Apply organic mulch to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, and inorganic mulch to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. A 2-inch thick layer of mulch requires about 6 cubic yards of material per 1000 square feet of area.
A weed barrier may be placed on the soil surface before using either organic or inorganic mulch material. The best choices are landscape fabrics of various types that allow air exchange and water infiltration.
Plastic sheeting should be avoided because it tears easily, may generate excessively high root-zone temperatures in direct sun, and interferes with water and air exchange with the soil.
Apply landscape fabric in strips over the soil, overlapping strips about 4 inches. Place mulch material over the weed barrier. Decomposed organic mulch will favor the growth of weeds on top of the weed barrier and should be replaced rather than replenished as needed.
In Utah, urban landscape irrigation accounts for 50-65% of the annual municipal water use, and much of it is applied in excess of the plant's needs. Scheduling irrigation according to landscape plant water needs can reduce excess water use. In addition to conserving water, proper irrigation can encourage deeper root growth and healthier, more drought tolerant landscapes.
An important component of water-efficient landscaping is creating hydrozones for your irrigation needs. To provide adequate water to all plants without over or under-watering some, group plants with similar irrigation needs in one zone.
Once your plants are grouped into zero, low, medium and high water groups, you should plan your irrigation schedule to apply the appropriate amount of water to each zone. You can learn a great deal about plant-water requirements simply by observation.
Signs, such as wilting, will let you know when many landscape plants require watering, but be careful not to overdo it. Plant roots need just as much air as water and you don’t want to drown them. If you are using an automatic irrigation timer, be sure to adjust it seasonally as the weather changes.
A great deal of water is wasted when automatic irrigation systems are continually programmed for the hottest part of the summer without adjusting for times when temperatures are cooler and more natural precipitation is occurring.
Another important aspect of irrigation planning includes routine maintenance of the system. Monthly examination of the irrigation system, while in use, will help you to find and repair any broken, misaligned, or clogged sprinkler heads and keep your system running efficiently.
Drip Irrigation systems consists of plastic pipes with emitters that deliver water directly to plants. These types of systems are great for water-efficient landscapes as water goes directly to the plants roots and is not wasted on areas that do not need to be watered.
Turfgrass has shallower roots than other landscape plants and therefore should be irrigated more frequently, but not as deeply as other landscape plants. Consider using turfgrasses with lower water requirements to reduce water use even further.
Plan and design irrigation systems so that turfgrass areas are irrigated separately from other landscape plants. There are several resources available to determine the appropriate watering schedule for turf areas in Utah.
Trees and shrubs have much deeper and more extensive root systems than turfgrass so they should be watered less frequently but for longer periods of time. The optimum time to water is just before you can observe any water stress. Therefore, it is important to determine sub-surface soil moisture. Soil moisture can be determined using a soil moisture probe.
Sandy soils absorb water the fastest (about 2" per hour), followed by loam soils (3/4" per hour). Clay soils have the slowest absorption rate (1/2"per hour). By allowing water to penetrate deeper into the soil profile, you are encouraging deeper rooting and a more drought tolerant plant.
Frequent, light irrigation will lead to plants that have a shallow root system and that are more prone to water stress. When using sprinkler systems about 1/2 -1 inch of water may be required weekly for shrubs and smaller trees (<4" trunk diameter). For drip irrigation about 5-50 gallons of water may be required.
These amounts would be higher in southern Utah and lower in northern Utah and would also depend on plant size. Large trees (>4" trunk diameter), depending on the size of the tree, may require hundreds of gallons of water per week. Water newly planted trees and shrubs more frequently until the root system is established.
Irrigation system maintenance is necessary to ensure the most efficient use of water that is being applied. Irrigation controllers should be checked at the beginning of each growing season before running sprinklers for the first time.
Programming: Set-up an irrigation schedule. The following basic irrigation schedule is recommended for use in Utah. Consult USU county extension offices for irrigation schedules that are directly applicable to your county
HereInspect Sprinkler System: Once the irrigation schedule is programmed, inspect the sprinkler system by checking the valves,sprinkler heads, and emitters. Before running the system, remove the last sprinkler head in each line and let the water run for a few minutes to flush out any dirt and debris. Replace the sprinkler head and turn the system on, running one valve at a time.
Inspect Drip System: As with sprinkler systems, flush the drip system before running it by removing the emitters and letting water run through the tubing for a few minutes to flush out any dirt and debris. Replace emitters and run the system, one valve at a time, to check for problems.
Winterization: Basic winterization of a sprinkler system is quite simple. The water supply should be turned off at the main valve and the irrigation controller should be set to the “rain” or “off” setting. Each valve should be turned on to release pressure in the pipes and water should be drained from the system to protect any components that could freeze. Your system may have drain valves that can be opened for drainage, or you may have to blow out the system using air. You may wish to have your irrigation system blown out by an irrigation professional.
Check Your System: Check your water system at the start of the season to adjust any heads and make sure there was no damage over the winter. The Water Check program offers free irrigation checks in many Utah counties. To find out more, or to find out how to check your system yourself, go to the CWEL Water Check page.
A benefit of established water-wise landscapes is they require less time and money to maintain than a traditional landscape. This assumes you have limited turfgrass to areas where it is practical, you have selected plants adapted to your climate, and you have grouped landscape plants according to their water, soil, and sun exposure requirements. Spend less time trying to manipulate plants to fit your conditions, and more time enjoying their beauty.
A benefit of established water-wise landscapes is they require less time and money to maintain than a traditional landscape. This assumes you have limited turfgrass to areas where it is practical, you have selected plants adapted to your climate, and you have grouped landscape plants according to their water, soil, and sun exposure requirements. In such a landscape, you will spend less time trying to manipulate plants to fit your conditions, and more time enjoying their beauty.
Although the activities required to maintain a water-wise landscape are not different from those of a conventional landscape, the way you think about them will change as you reconsider your plant selections. The main activities of water-wise landscape maintenance are irrigation and irrigation system maintenance, weed control, fertilization, pruning, and pest and disease control.
Keep in mind that newly planted landscapes will require much more “upfront” maintenance, especially regarding weed control, and that all landscapes require some maintenance, whether they are water-wise or not.
A weed is simply a plant out of place. With that in mind, any plant can be a potential weed if it crowds out or uses up resources needed for desirable plants. Some “weedy” plants become such a problem that they end up being declared “noxious” in a particular region.
Controlling weeds is critical to maintaining a healthy water-wise landscape because weeds compete with desirable plants for nutrients, moisture, and sunlight. Remember that water used by a weed is unavailable to desirable plants.
Weeds can be annuals (germinate, reproduce, and die in one season) or perennials (survive over many years). It is important to learn to recognize and classify weeds in the seedling stage because this will determine your best control options.
Perennial weeds are especially difficult to control if you let them grow beyond the seedling stage because they establish deep root systems that are hard to eradicate. You may also find it helpful to learn to distinguish between weed seedlings and seedlings of self-sowing desirable plants, especially if you are using self-sowing plants to fill in some areas of your garden.
Mechanical removal of weeds can be accomplished by hand-pulling, hoeing, or tilling. Even though hand-pulling weeds can be tedious, if done on a regular basis before weeds go to seed, it is the least disruptive weed control method in established plantings.
Hand-pulling works with either annual or perennial weeds, as long as you catch them in the seedling stage. It can be difficult to pull out the entire root system of an established perennial, and if you don’t, it can sprout again from the root or crown. Never leave annual or perennial weeds on top of soil or use as mulch after pulling because some persistent weeds can re-sprout from root crowns and root systems left on the ground.
Annual weeds that haven’t gone to seed can be composted, but perennial weeds should always be discarded in the trash. Hoeing and tilling are alternatives to hand-pulling, but care must be taken around established plantings so you don’t disturb or destroy the roots of desirable plants.
Mulches should be used around landscape plants to inhibit weeds and conserve water. Mulches can be organic materials such as composted wood chips, pine needles, or grass clippings, or they can be inorganic materials such as crushed stone or gravel.